Farmers forge ahead with new winter market
Photo/Carol Coultas
Barak Olins, owner of Zu Bakery in Freeport, hopes to sell his goods at a winter farmers' market in Portland
No longer will people in Portland have to forego Maine food during the dark, cold days of winter. In response to growing demand, a group of local farmers and small food producers is starting a new winter market in Portland to sell root vegetables, chicken, pork, spices, bread, fish, dairy, tempeh -- even possibly wild mushrooms, fresh pasta, homemade olive oil and more.
And though the group hit a slight snag when it encountered a bit of bureaucracy in Portland around what legally constitutes a farmers market, the group -- with financial help from their landlord -- is still hoping to open the market Feb. 13 at 85 Free St. and run the market until mid-April.
If it happens, the Portland market will be the second such venue in southern Maine, following the remarkable success of the winter market in Brunswick at the Fort Andross mill.
The rise of these cold-weather markets coincides with people's increasing interest in eating organic, natural food grown or made by local growers and artisans. And now more and more farmers are rethinking their business models to continue selling year round, according to Barak Olins, the owner of Zu Bakery in Freeport. Olins sells his bread at the Brunswick winter market.
Olins says that not so long ago "not many people were even imagining a winter market would be possible in Maine. The fact that we're talking about it is a big jump."
The idea for a winter market in Portland was born after Anthony Gatti, one of the owners of Fort Andross, signed on to manage the building on 85 Free St. in early January. He says he knew immediately who he wanted as his first tenant.
"We've been doing so well at the market at Fort Andross," Gatti explains. The market there has increased from 13 vendors to about 45 vendors in just a year. Vendors rent weekly tables for $18.
The sellers responded enthusiastically to Gatti's offer, but then ran into complications when they discovered that Portland's farmer-market rules were stricter than Brunswick's rules. The city required that some vendors -- based on whether the food they sold was also what they grew or raised -- would have to pay a $195 licensing fee, which is too pricey for some vendors to afford, according to Olins.
"The really important thing for the city to understand is the very narrow margins we all exist on," Olins says. "This type of livelihood has very little cushions."
But Gatti jumped in. He says he will help vendors afford the license by giving them rent credit for their weekly tables. "We want to make it work," he says.
Portland's spokeswoman Nicole Clegg says the city supports the winter market because it will generate new business activity. But she says the market cannot be classified as a traditional farmers market, which comes with less expensive fees for its vendors. The city's rules are in place to reinforce the link between what farmers sell at market and what they grow on their farms.
"They're in keeping with our sustainability views and the buy-local culture," Clegg says. "A farmer's market is an opportunity for local farmers to sell what they've produced."
Under the city's ordinance, food producers, like bakers, fishermen and spice purveyors, would be required to purchase a new annual license of $195, which would be good for the whole season. On the other hand, a farmer selling his or her own vegetables, cheese, fiber, eggs, cheese, honey, jam, etc., would only have to pay the farmers' market starting fee of $95.
Dean Zoulamis, who owns Mother Oven Bakery in Bowdoinham and plans to be one of the 21 vendors at Portland's winter market, says the fees will likely be prorated since the market is starting late. Winter markets generally start in November and end in April. Despite the minor obstacle of what the city defines as a farmers market, Zoulamis is optimistic.
"Having [the Brunswick market] has been pretty much the savior of my business," Zoulamis says. "It has helped us out a lot just to get through. A Portland market would be amazing."
He said last year his revenue grew because he was able to increase the percentage of his retail sales from 15% of his total business to 50%. And retail sales allow him to charge more.
The Brunswick market has also been good for Olins; he says he has doubled his business. "We get an enormous turnout," Olins says of the Brunswick market. "We have live music and nonprofit tables. It's a real community event."
He adds, "The potential for the Portland market is quite big."
Most Recent
Most Recent
Comments